The Ultimate Guide to Hongya Cave

Introduction: A Cyberpunk Masterpiece

In the heart of Chongqing, a city often dubbed "8D" for its gravity-defying geography, stands a structure that blurs the line between reality and fantasy. Hongya Cave (Hongyadong) is not merely a building; it is a vertical city clinging to a cliffside, a dazzling architectural marvel that embodies the soul of the "Mountain City."

Located at the intersection of the Yangtze and Jialing Rivers, within the core commercial district of Jiefangbei, Hongya Cave is a massive stilted building complex. To the uninitiated, it defies logic: you can enter from the road on the 11th floor, take an elevator down to the 1st floor, and walk out onto yet another road. By day, it is a majestic tribute to traditional Bayu architecture. By night, it transforms into a glowing, gold-hued palace that bears a striking resemblance to the bathhouse in Hayao Miyazaki’s Spirited Away. This guide will navigate you through the history, architecture, and sensory experiences of Chongqing's most iconic landmark.

History: From Military Fortress to Cultural Icon

To understand Hongya Cave, you must look beyond its modern neon lights. Its roots run deep into the military and urban history of Chongqing. The site was originally known as Hongya Gate, one of the seventeen historic city gates of Old Chongqing. Historically, Chongqing’s gates were divided into "Nine Open and Eight Closed." Hongya Gate was a "Closed Gate," meaning it did not have a physical door for traffic but served as a crucial military fortress,.

Dating back to the Warring States period (475–221 BC), this site utilized the precipitous cliffs overlooking the river to defend the Ba Kingdom against enemies. Historical records indicate that during the Three Kingdoms period, the legendary strategist Zhuge Liang stationed troops here, and traces of ancient plank roads remain carved into the cliff face.

For centuries, this area was a strategic point. However, by the Ming and Qing dynasties, the military function faded, and it evolved into a settlement for the common people. The earliest versions of the stilted buildings, or Diaojiaolou, appeared as residents built homes that clung to the steep slopes to avoid floods and maximize limited space. The site you see today is the result of a massive restoration project launched in 2003 and completed in 2006, designed to preserve this endangered architectural heritage while revitalizing the riverfront,.

Architecture: The Art of the Diaojiaolou

The architectural significance of Hongya Cave cannot be overstated. It stands as the foremost example of the Bayu Diaojiaolou style—traditional stilted buildings unique to the mountainous regions of Southwest China.

The structure relies on the "mountain as the skeleton and the river as the bloodline". The builders utilized the natural cliff face to support the structure. Traditional construction techniques involve using wood without a single iron nail or rivet. Instead, the buildings rely entirely on mortise and tenon joints to lock the timber together. The pillars tilt and adjust according to the slope of the mountain, creating a "suspended" effect.

Today, the complex spans 11 floors, with a total volume of 60,000 square meters. It integrates tourism, commerce, and leisure, functioning as a "city within a city." It perfectly illustrates the "Nine Open, Eight Closed" philosophy of the old city gates: the gates near the water were "open" to manage flow, while the "closed" gates like Hongya were situated on dry cliffs to ward off fire—a symbolic wish for water to suppress fire.

The Vertical Experience: Floor by Floor

Navigating Hongya Cave is an adventure. Because of the terrain, the 1st floor and the 11th floor are both ground-level streets.

The Summit (11th Floor): City Balcony You will likely arrive here from the Jiefangbei district. This is the "City Balcony," a large observation deck offering panoramic views of the Jialing River and the Qiansimen Bridge. Here, you stand on top of the complex, yet you are street-level with Cangbai Road. It is a surreal experience that defines Chongqing’s topography.

The Cultural Core (4th Floor): Tiancheng Lane Take the elevator or stairs down to the 4th floor to find the bustling Tiancheng Lane. This area replicates the atmosphere of the "Old Chongqing" markets. It is the heart of the folk culture experience.

• Intangible Heritage: This floor is dedicated to preserving local crafts. You can visit the "Bayu Folk Custom Street" to see artisans demonstrating traditional skills such as leather shadow puppetry and Shu embroidery. The "Diaojiaolou Construction Skills Exhibition Hall" is also located here, showing how these wooden giants are pieced together.

• Culinary Delights: The air here is thick with the scent of chili and Sichuan peppercorns. You will find rows of vendors selling local snacks like hot and sour rice noodles, handmade glutinous rice cakes, and roasted skewers.

The Base (1st Floor): Riverside Road Descending to the bottom, you arrive at the Jiabin Road (Jialing River Seaside Road). This is where you can look up and fully appreciate the sheer scale of the 11-story structure towering above you. This level connects to the riverfront and is the best place to find a spot for a wide-angle photograph of the entire building.

The Waterfall: Hongya Dicui A key feature of the site is the artificial waterfall. Historically, a natural stream flowed from the city, tumbling down the cliff to form a cascade known as "Hongya Dicui" (Verdant Hongya), one of the Twelve Views of Bayu. Over time, urbanization turned this stream into a sewage ditch, and the view vanished. However, the reconstruction project restored the landscaping. Now, a man-made cascade tumbles down the rock face, recreating the lush, green environment of the past amidst the urban jungle.

The Night View: A Golden Dream

While the architecture is impressive by day, Hongya Cave truly comes alive after sunset. Around 7:30 PM (depending on the season), the lights turn on. The entire wooden structure is illuminated in warm, golden light, contrasting sharply with the dark river and the modern neon skyscrapers across the water.

This is the moment the comparison to Spirited Away becomes undeniable. The layered roofs, the glowing lanterns, and the bustling crowds create a dreamlike atmosphere. Whether you are standing on the Qiansimen Bridge looking down, or across the river at the Grand Theatre looking back, the view is spectacular. It is a visual representation of the city's welcoming enthusiasm.

Dining and Entertainment

Hongya Cave is a culinary destination. The complex is packed with restaurants ranging from casual street food to upscale dining.

• Hot Pot: No trip to Chongqing is complete without hot pot. You will find numerous hot pot restaurants within the complex, offering tables with river views. Eating spicy food while watching the ships pass by on the Jialing River is the quintessential Chongqing experience.

• Old Tea Houses: For a slower pace, seek out the "Old Chongqing Tea House" on the 8th floor. It retains the décor of the late Qing Dynasty and early Republic era. Here, you can sip covered-bowl tea (Gaiwan tea) and watch a performance of Sichuan Opera, including the famous "Face Changing" art.

Conclusion

Hongya Cave is more than just a photo opportunity; it is a physical narrative of Chongqing’s resilience and creativity. It tells the story of a city that refused to be limited by its difficult terrain, choosing instead to build artworks on cliffs. From the ancient military fortress to the bustling commercial hub of today, it represents the fusion of the past and future. A visit here is a walk through the "mountain bones and river veins" of this magnificent city.